How to test it
NDSU Extension gives these steps:
- Confirm the outlet pipe isn't frozen or plugged and that it directs water away from the house.
- Unplug the pump. Remove the lid if there is one and use a flashlight to check that the sump is clean and the intake isn't blocked.
- Plug the pump back in, then slowly pour water into the sump at roughly the speed water would normally enter.
- Watch the float switch and listen to the pump. NDSU says to "make the pump turn on and off at least twice." If it doesn't sound right, fix it as soon as possible.
The document does not give a testing schedule. Testing before the wet season, and after any repair, is a sensible habit.
What else to check
- Discharge. NDSU says water should be discharged at least 20 feet from the house, not onto a neighbor's lot, into window wells, or onto a septic drain field. Don't pump it into a basement floor drain. With a public sewer, check your local rules, since some communities prohibit it.
- Check valve. The document recommends one on the outlet pipe so water doesn't flow back into the sump when the pump shuts off. Backflow makes the pump cycle more often than necessary, which shortens its life.
- Battery backup. Most backup pumps run on batteries kept charged by a trickle charger. The backup float sits above the main pump's turn-on point, so if the main pump fails, rising water starts the backup. Backups need regular checks too.
- Age. NDSU says some manufacturers recommend replacing the switch and float every two years and the pump every five years.
When to call someone
If the pump won't start, runs constantly, or you aren't sure the discharge is legal for your property, a plumber can sort it out. We can send a licensed partner.
Sources
Every figure above comes from one of these. Where they disagree, the post says so rather than averaging them into a single number.